Grace Lutheran Journal: July 2010

South Africa Journal

Greetings all: I am now in Africa in Zeerust, South Africa (nearest place with internet connection). The following is my report:

Day 1: Tues, 6th April, 2010:
Saying goodbye to Claudia was tough (only two months and I will be home)! Flying went well - just enough time to get from one flight to the next. Traveling alone leads to more opportunity for conversations. Unfortunately when I arrived, my luggage did not. By the time I had that sorted out, it was midnight, the airport was closed, my ride had left and I had not brought the phone number along. Homeless in Johannesburg! South Africans are hospitable and in short order my dilemma was fixed.

Day 2 - Wed, 7th April:
The Africa Centre is quite beautiful and helpful and has great breakfasts. Karabo Matladi, Jake's son, transported me the four hours to Lekubu - fascinating conversation with a young may with great vision. I am being hosted overnight & breakfast at eight different homes - different one each week. Now I am with the family of Dikeledi Segakweng.

Day 3 - Thurs, 8th April:
Rejoice Pelompe (Lekubu Chair), Moruti Phege, Kgomotso Moletswane, my constant companion & I reviewed plan. They have prepared long and well. I will experience everything in the parish and the area. One of my surprises is the diversity even in Lekubu. The shopkeeper, next door, is a Muslim from India, a good ...friend of Moruti. Dean Seaketso and Dr. Molokoe met with us in the eve.

Day 4 - Fri, 9th April:
I saw Moruti Ishmael and Abe Mosadi today! Am now in Zeerust to put my daily journal on the Internet. I will only be able to do this once a week. Hopefully my luggage has also arrived here. I have misplaced my USB cord to my camera so cannot download pictures and my flash drive is in that luggage.

Day 5 - Sat, 10th April:
I attended and brought greetings to the Madikwe Circuit Women's Prayer League - a 3 day event. Amazing - 300-400 women filling this rural church, tents outside for eating, huge pots for the food, the singing, and the part I saw was each group giving a thorough report of their vision, actions, p...roblems, and conclusions in the last year - quite an event!

Day 6 - Sun, 11th April: Worship at Mosweu
The walls are going up on their church. I baptized a child and distributed Communion. After blessing the children, the adults also asked for me to bless them - another moving experience. Afternoon Abe, the pastor and I walked around the village visiting the sick and aged - i...ncluding a 92 and 100 year olds. What an honor to be in their houses & what insights/experience!

Day 7 - Mon, 12th April:
Visited primary & high school, chicken project, a farmer, brick project, and Home Based Care. Get this ==> all by donkey cart! They had me drive the donkeys. I only crashed twice - donkeys have a mind of their own! Observed confirmation in the afternoon - confirmation is Mon, Wed, Fri - 2 hours each.

Day 8 - Tues, 13th April:
Dr. Molokoe took Kgomotso (my constant companion) and I to visit Phenyo Parish to prepare them for the Conference visit. I saw Dr. Molokoe's Office in Department of Education & visited an hour with 2 Peace Corp workers. A delight to talk with someone I can easily understand. Peace Corp is a mo...re sheltered & restricted experience from what I am being given.

Day 9 - Wed, 14th April: 12 hours bus ride
We left early for Pietermaritzburg - a 4 hour bus ride to Pretoria, 5 hour layover, then an 8 hour bus ride. We left at 10;00 am & arrived the next morning at 4:00 AM. Worst part was traveling much of it at night when I could see nothing out of the window. Bus is a 2 decker, coach, holding 70 people!

Day 10,Thursday, 15th April: Durban – USA Embassy
Went with Pogiso to U.S. Embassy in Durban for his VISA application interview. We took a combi - something tourists never do. Today is one of 2 days banks are very busy - I stood in line 4 hours to make one deposit (to US Consualte)! Upshot - we were too late for the appointment, but Pogiso went to ...the Embassy while I did the bank so he was able to reschedule. Downtown Durban was fascinating! One of the three major public lectures of the year were held tonight for the School of Religion and Theology - an event before graduation. Lecture was amazing since given by an ordained woman now a doctorate professor of religion who had grown up in a traditional African Village - topic was on "Job 3 interpreted in Bosadi Theology" Bosadi = woman.

Day 11, Fri, 16th April: Lutheran Theological Institute in Pietermaritzburg
I attended a lecture with Pogiso and then his graduation. KwaZulu Natal University for School of Religion & Theology is quite progressive and dynamic. Emphasis on ministering to marginalized is very strong. A great experience! I also had the honor to take Pogiso's family out to dinner afterwards - 1st University Grad in the family! Had a long conversation in the evening with the Dlomo family with which I am staying here. The daughter returned 3 weeks ago after two years studying in the U.S.

Day 12, Sat, 17th April:
Conversed with Professors Matthew Shabele and Eric M? and a pastor in Zimbabwe doing graduate work. Had lunch with Lorato Mogorosi a student through ELCSA-NT and took the Madikwe Circuit students out for supper. There are 4 students from the Western Diocese suspended from seminary this year due to lack of funds, including Kgomotso from Lekubu. ELCSA pays for their tuition and students must pay room and board. Some cannot afford that and good pastors are being lost. We left on Pietermaritzburg at 11:00 PM on the bus - another 8 hour night journey and no chance to see the countryside.

Day 13 – 18th April: bus ride #2
This was a travel day from midnight AM until 7:00 before we arrived at Zeerust. Travelling at night is total darkness, then a six hour layover in Pretoria, the men’s room locked for the entire day at the depot, and the bus needing repairs when it finally came nearly made this an irritating day. The plus was a Namibian pastor I met at the station and I both had Peter Kjeseth as a professor in Namibia & US respectively, plus the scenery to Zeerust was amazing! My luggage also finally arrived! I’m staying at a new family – Tiro - my 2nd home.

Day 14 – 19th April: visiting the homebound
Today was a day for which I came to Africa. I took Holy Communion to the homes of all the sick and aged at Lekubu (at least four are in their 90s). What a privilege to be received into twelve different homes, be received graciously and hear their story, and to sing in Tswana, pray, institute Communion, distribute and bless them in such a different world! We did hear some complaints, “Why does he only speak in English? I can’t understand him?” We also received a liter of fresh milked milk, two chickens, six small cakes, and a hunk of beef for our service. I did have to eat the cow’s intestine to get the beef (the men must eat the intestines immediately after slaughtering a cow and before any of the meat can be eaten) and hold the slab while it was axed in two for the large piece we received.

Day 15 - Tuesday, 20th April:
Moruti Phege showed me the church administration and record keeping. Everything is very well accounted, membership – baptisms, confirmation, marriages, and funerals; finances – income and expenses; all the receipts; all correspondence with the Dean & Bishop; and a file with all of our correspondence including the letters from our confirmation students. Since I now have my luggage and the gifts I brought and I this is my last night with the Tiro family, I gave some gifts to them – prayer shawl and the Wisconsin food I brought (dried cranberries, blueberries and cherries and pumpkin seeds). Pumpkin they are well acquainted with and they also have blueberries and cherries in South Africa, but the cranberries were new to them.

Day 16 - Wednesday, 21st April: Wisconsin River Valley Conference Delegation Arrives
We changed the plans today. As much as I want to see Amanda and the rest of the group from our Wausau area, I am feeling uncomfortable at the cost of transporting me the four hours to Johannesburg. When Mr. Pelompe told me Jake Matladi was having difficulties lining up a ride for me I quickly began conversing with him about this. I will miss also all the information from Rev. Dr. Phil Knutson, the ELCA Global Mission person placed in South Africa, and the tour he will lead of the Apartheid Museum, but stewardship must prevail and the reality of resources of Lekubu.

Not going to Johannesburg gave time for Kgomotso and Moruti Phege to take me to the clinic and the police station. The police in Lekubu also cover Mogolo (a village of around 7,000). They have about three police on duty and the same number on call. Domestic violence is also an all too common problem here as is stealing. The clinic building has 2,000 square feet, with three small exam rooms and one small room for the drugs (only drug source in the village), a ten by ten foot room for all the paper files, serving 4-5,000 people, delivering one to two hundred babies a year, with three nurses and a doctor that comes perhaps once a week! There were twenty people in the small waiting room of all ages. This is startling! We are so blessed in America!

Day 17 - Thursday, 22nd April:
Not meeting the Conference delegation is is giving me two extra days to live with the Tiro family. They are very pleased I was staying longer. What gracious hosts! Each morning Letlhogonolo (5 years old ) and Otshepen (11) play with their two small toys, a truck and tractor. That’s the only toys! How different from America!

Day 18 - Friday, 23rd April:
Mr. Pelompe picked me up at 4:30, well before dawn, to take me to Zeerust to ride along with the driver who is picking up the Conference Delegation. Khumo Tiro was up at 3:30 to get breakfast for me. How kind! What great hosts! I had a very interesting conversation with Lucky, the combi driver. He’s from Serake and a member of the Lutheran Parish there (in Madikwe Circuit) and now living in Zeerust. Lucky is very thoughtful – concerned about the government (South Africa needs a White president, Blacks have not had enough time and experience in administration and are too tempted to please friends and family), education is the key for Blacks (his 10-year old son is very proficient on the computer), Zeerust offers many more opportunities for his family than available in Serake, and he’d like to begin a travel business (educating Blacks on the safety and procedure for air travel).

It was surreal to see Amanda in Africa and her to see me. After all these days how strange to see people from Wisconsin and to hear that accent! I caught up on their adventures with the Iceland volcano, their tour with Knutson, and Steve Stretz’s driving in Johannesburg. Lucky took us to President’s headquarters in Pretoria, a beautiful place and view. We arrived at the Deanery in Lehurutshe after noon, ate, and had a welcome reception meeting the hosts for the six congregations receiving our twelve people from the Wisconsin River Valley Conference.

Day 19 - Saturday, 24th April: Amanda & I with Pogiso’s Family
Amanda and I are now living with the Motlhabane family – Pogiso’s parents. We each have our own good-sized bedroom. This is a new brick house built in 2006. It is not all completed yet as they need to put ceilings in and add running water (Pogiso’s brother died that year, and their sorrow another reason for not having completed the house). The water for meals and baths is heated in an outdoor roofed fire pit.

Upon our arrival, Pogiso’s family immediately took us into my bedroom, closed the door, and had Mr. Pelompe translate (Pogiso’s 14-year old brother, Keoagile, is the only one who speaks English fairly well here). They are so thankful for Grace Lutheran in America! Without Grace Pogiso would not be a pastor. They cannot think of a way to sufficiently show their thanks except to give their best – to kill a goat in honor of Grace! We saw that whole process today – cutting the throat, skinning it (to be dried and used as a rug), using and cleaning everything including the head and intestines, and then we being honored with the privilege of eating the fried intestines – malamogodu.

This is all a stretch for Amanda (trauma?). It misted all yesterday and today (with no heat 50 degrees is miserable); we don’t see butchering in the U.S.; the outhouse and the wash basin is a new experience; Keoagile is either not too interested or comfortable in translating or speaking much in English; she’s never had intestines before – sight, sounds, smells, taste are all challenging and she is freezing!

Day 20 - Sunday, 25th April: Worship at Lekubu
Though worship began at 9:00 we were not picked up until 9:15. I robbed, joined worship already in progress and preached. After worship we attended the second day of a wedding reception – 1st day at bride’s & 2nd day at groom’s house – 100s attend & tents are set up. Eating & drinking sorghum beer is a big part of it.

Day 21 – Mon, 26th April
Monthly meeting of Circuit Pastors today. Every pastor attended since this is mandatory. Instead of their usual Bible Study we told of our experience and responded to their questions on World Cup, our structure & constitution, training & standards of pastors, why no more missionaries, and how we deal with “backsliders”.
Confirmation was cancelled because of the rain. Pelompe & Rev. Phege discussed the different teachings of their pastors on worship.

Day 22 – Tues, 27th April = Freedom Day – everything is closed
Fourth straight day of rain. Ever since Amanda came it has rained. Constant clouds, a series of mist, drizzle and rain, with temperatures estimated in the high 40s at night to low 60s perhaps during the day. The constant cool and dampness is very chilling.

Day 23 - Wednesday, 28th April:
Finally the rain ended. These past days were miserable! Since there is no heat system and no insulation all buildings quickly have the same temperature as outside. Four days of 50 degrees as the high is terribly uncomfortable. The only time we are warm is in bed. They have great blankets, and have four of them on our beds. Winter days here warm up into the 70s and 80s (Lekubu is the same latitude as Miami – just the other side of the equator), and there seldom is even a cloud in late Fall, all Winter, and early Spring. Nights cool off quickly and down into the 40s, but people go to bed early and are up at dawn (roosters begin crowing at 4:30). But the few times it does rain it is miserable!

Days 24 – 26: Thurs, Fri, Sat April 29, 30, May 1, Safari at Mosetlha Bush Camp
The camp has no electricity but wonderful hospitality using donkey boilers for our showers & lanterns everywhere at night. We saw 4 of big 5 and lots of animals, and also had great conversations & sharing among the 12 from WI and the 6 from Madikwe Circuit. This was a very helpful time to reflect, to think of things to address before leaving, and to enjoy the wonders of Africa.

Day 26 -Saturday, 1st May
Pelompe picked me up at the gate at 8 where our safari guides served tea for all of our group. Great conversation with him on the value of my giving gifts but importance of my not reimbursing people. They are having trouble paying for my trips to & from Joburg but have asked 16 people to give R 100 each. Pelompe sees the importance of Lekubu people investing in this relationship and seeing it equal.

Wedding: I left the safari early in order to conduct a wedding at Lekubu – what an experience! I met the couple at 10:00 to be clear on the pronunciation of their names and to clarify their agreement in having me officiate, my privilege in doing so, and the specialness of this day. The wedding was at 11:00 and different than I had thought and planned. Music was added several places and is not planned in advance – Phege simply said a number at key points in the ceremony and people began singing. They did not want a kiss included (this culture is very shy about kissing or even dating in public), but Phege inserted this – probably not a choice. When I was about to do the Benediction I learned this is advice and good wishes time. Several people spoke – great words: an uncle, a related member of the royal family, another relative, and then the royal family person again on behalf of the Chief.

The reception was huge, several hundred people with a special caterer hired who does everything – tent, MC, and food. Close family and friends were seated in the tent and an hour+ program of speeches before the meal began. Many addressed the bride & groom and nearly everyone, including the sister, brother and close friends, urged them to keep God and church at the center of their marriage – amazing and strong witnesses to faith! The Birde and groom also spoke with the bride giving a very eloquent and touching speech. The pastors were given seats of honor on a front table with an ANC leader, the head of one of the departments in the government who spent 10+ years in exile in Uganda during the apartheid time. Amanda and Kgomotso came back from the safari during this time. We spent one last night at Motlhabane’s. Thuso is as kind and helpful as can be! The lack of a bathroom is a challenge to Amanda, but it does give us time to talk in private at night while brushing teeth, using the outhouse, and gazing at the incredible view of stars.

Day 27 - Sunday, 2nd May: Worship at Lekubu
This Sunday we were picked up at 8:00 and I was to do Baptism, Communion and blessing of the Youth League officers. I need to ask specifics as communication is more casual here. I am not good at Tswana names whispered tome, nor singing the Lord’s Prayer as a solo, nor different directions whispered in both ears at the same time. Whew! Amanda assured me it was not as haphazard as I felt. We had dinner at two of the Baptism homes, then visited the Arch Bishop of the Apostolic Church and the Traditional Herbal Doctor. The day ended with our move to Sylvia Mosimane’s house for the duration of Amanda’s stay.

Day 28 - Monday, 3rd May
Heavy thunderstorm during the night with lots of wind, lightning and thunder. Phege showed us the dam and the water roaring in the usually very small creek near Mosimane’s. We visited the two primary and the middle school dodging heavy downpours. First four years teach Life Orientation, Setswana, Math and Reading. English begins in grade 4. Grade 6 includes Arts & Culture, Economics, & Technology. Solid education with limited facilities & resources, and teachers frustrated by parents who don’t value education and the hurdles of the many children who don’t have parents.

Day 29 - Tuesday, 4th May
Moruti was very open this morning about his struggles in ministry. Today was the review of the 12 of us from the WRV Conference with our host leaders and Dr. Molokoe & Dean Seaketso at the Deanery.
Delegation from the WRV Conference & Madikwe Circuit leaders came up with 12 ideas:
1. Patience
2. Communication
3. Sharing a candle
4. Regular inserts/information at Sunday Worship
5. Give community forums (beyond the congregation)
6. Connect more with South Africans at Crossways both WRV congregations & Madikwe Circuit
7. Commit to regular correspondence
8. Participate in each others’ projects/groups, e.g. Youth League, Men’s League, Womens’ Leagues, and Choirs
9. Continue the exchange of visits
10. Set up exhibits in our churches
11. Emphasize the urgency of this relationship
12. Seek to develop a Circuit camp counsellor

We took a combi to the Diocese Centre where they fed us supper and put us up overnight, and met Crossways’ counsellors from previous years – Ghontse and Sbu – as well as Rev. Ubane & the three counsellors for this year. We also briefly sat in on a rehearsal of the Anitoch Lutheran Parish’s Choir, the congregation that is on the grounds of the Diocese Centre.

Day 30 - Wednesday, 5th May
Today was our review day with the Bishop at the Diocese Centre in Rustenburg, ELCSA Development leader in Johannesburg, and Rev. Phil Knutson, staff person from our ELCA in South Africa. Amanda and I then left the other ten from our Conference at the Johannesburg airport and our Combi driver drove us back to Lekubu, getting back just before midnight. For our WRV sake – the combi driver’s name is Lucky Onkabetse email: luckyonkabetse@yahoo.com

Insights of Bishop Ditlhale:
We met with Bishop Ditlhale who carefully listened to our experiences. He added some new thoughts:
• emphasizing the importance of keeping the Bishop & Dean informed for accountability;
• the possibility of a more involved agricultural (crops or cattle) or HIV AIDs project/volunteer;
• have a theme for monthly prayer concern and lift up the fact that we use the same Sunday readings,
• when we visit we ought to spend two days working together since it is important to leave a sign behind of what we have done and this creates a bond, ownership, investment and memories on both sides

Insights from Pastor Agullhas, the chair of ELCSA Development Service:
The Combi then took us to the ELCSA center in Johannesburg where we met with Pastor Agullhas, the chair of ELCSA Development Service. USA connections with S.A. trace back to 1927 with the Norwegian Lutheran Church in America. In the 1950s there were fifty missionaries from U.S. Today ELCA supports ELCSA Development Service the past 15 years through World Hunger. It is important for companion synods to be aware of this and to participate in discussion of uses for development and that this year Circuits are to identify needs that they bring to their Diocesan Council. This is hard-core development, not institutional but community based:
• especially food security, e.g. agricultural training for 3000 subsistence farmers to use land better
• income security
• water & sanitation
• HIV AIDS  Home Based Care; 4 million are now full blown; all HIV AIDS services are now consolidated under ELCSA-DS
• basic policy – listen, facilitate & participate so people help themselves = process needs, resources, plan,implement, develop ownership
• now looking at poor in ELCSA churches & their communities

Insights from Rev. Phil Knutson:
Phil Knutson emphasized: that we use “companion accompaniment” since “partnership” carries different connotations; realize nothing is clear and unambiguous in relationships and in South Africa; our sharing is important so that we be honest & respectful and challenge people’s mindset/stereotypes; he was very pleased with Rev. Joy MortensenWiebe’s article on “local mission”; he has an article Word & World, Spring 2001; ELCSA has only four staff people the power is in each Diocese; and the value of our checking in with all levels, Parish, Circuit, Diocese, ELCSA, ELCSA – Development Services.
• use “companion accompaniment” since “partnership” carries different connotations
• relationships are important in South Africa: “Umbutu” = a person is a person through other people
• nothing is clear and unambiguous in relationships and in South Africa
• Our sharing is important:
o Think – what would our companions say? Would what I say please the Dean, Bishop, Baruti?
o Be honest & respectful
o Challenge people’s filing system/mindset/sterotypes! Talk about the pictures already in their minds! What do they see and think about Africa.
• He loved Rev. Joy MortensenWiebe’s article on “local mission” that we are all one in mission!
• His attempt at describing mission is in Word & World, Spring 2001 – on the web  “Bridges & Gaps” by Rev. Phil Knutson
• ELCSA only has four staff people the power is in the Diocese which is complicated because of the diversity of groups and backgrounds, e.g. “vestment fights” Black German robe or Swedish alb, etc.
• Always check with all the levels  Parish, Circuit, Diocese, ELCSA, ELCSA – Development Services
• Have fun & think of the long term

Day 31 - Thursday, 6th May
I did opening devotion at the Middle School for all 300+ students: They began with a hymn, I read Psalm 105:1-2,5; gave a message; prayed; and they closed with a hymn. Phege & Kgomotso explained that communities with Muslims, Hindus & Christians prayer is not done at school. We witnessed the Village meeting and then took a two hour walk to the far side of Lekubu village. The village is 4 miles from west to east, has three taverns, many Tuck shops & several General Stores, and a private Game Reserve (elephants & lions) on the far side. We also took care of reimbursing the Circuit for our transport – convenience of ATMs – and Dean shared his concern that Lekubu nearly lost their relationship with Grace.

16 year old girl missing – victim of human trafficking?“The Elders are failing to lead and act. This is the third person who has gone missing. The Elders do not care about us and they do nothing!” Such were the sharp words of a woman to the Village Elders at a four hour meeting of Village people in the Chief’s Kraal. About 60 people were there. This was a specially called meeting to address the concern of Kgomotso Prudence Rantao, a 16 year old member of Lekubu Parish who is missing and is feared kidnapped. Village life is changing. Alcohol is a serious problem. The outside world is intruding and with it both the world’s misleading temptations and its evil.

Day 32 - Friday, 7th May
An open day - Ruth showed us her house, visited the Crech – saw them counting, then to Bangladesh’s Tuck Shop, and for a walk with Phege & Kgomotso to visit Rantao’s and a family building an addition in their back yard. Two neighbours, Sheila (37 with a child of 7 living with her mother and siblings) & Nurse Monametsi (36 with children 16 & 14, no living parents, one sibling in Pretoria) visited with us at the parsonage for quite some time telling us their stories, sharing their surprise when Amanda showed a picture of her Alex admitting before me that she had a boyfriend, and telling us of the nature courtship in Lekubu. I taught Confirmation in the afternoon about Martin Luther and the five key dates and events of 1517, 1521, 1529, 1530 & 1580.

Day 33 - Saturday, 8th May
We met with Mr. Moilwa, a Community Development Worker with the Ramotishere-Moilwa Municipality (similar to a county and covering roughly the same area as the Madikwe Circuit). This area is divided into 17 wards with 13 workers who discern the needs and then seek funding and provide assistance to meet those needs e.g. Home Based Care for those with HIV AIDS, the many orphans, and people & children without food; and the chicken and bricks project. We established a date and agenda for meeting again.

Day 34 - Sunday, 9th May: Mothers' Day Worship at Lekubu
Keorapetse drove Sylvia and us to church. Women led the worship since it is Mothers’ Day with Kefilwe Segakweng preaching. Moruti Phege led worship at Mosweu.

Giving Gifts from Grace:
This is our last worship at Lekubu so we stayed in order to give gifts. We blessed and gave Melanie Moyle’s knit hats to the Elders to distribute to children in need (this was a big hit and a clear need so much so that they suggested adding ear flaps and a way to tie them) as well as also giving the banner to the Elders and each of them a knit cross. Annette Yustus’ afghan we gave to Phege’s which they greatly appreciated. We gave Rejoice Pelompe one of the large Palestinian carved crosses and Moruti Phege and Kgomotso each a carved pastor’s cross. We gave T-shirts and a prayer shawl to the six hosting me and Amanda gave hand towels to the two hosting her in their homes, Palestinian ornaments to all serving meals, the bookmarks from Grace’s Sunday School to theirs, and the cross necklaces’s that Grace’s After-school and Confirmation youth made to their Confirmation students who loved them (attendance was way up for youth this Sunday because of their receiving this). We learned giving gifts is not easy in this sharing/giving culture. Since we are “family” as soon as we give gifts to one everyone else expects a gift, and since it is expected more demands are expressed than thanks.

This was a full day after worship:
• I thought just Phege and Amanda and I were going to Rantaos, but about ten others from worship came. The prayers and music was very well received and important for the family.
• The Rantao family arranged for Amanda and I, Sylvia Mosimane, and Pelompes to go to their relatives farm.

Day 35, Monday, 10th May: CULTURE
After spending over a month immersed in a different culture and with most of that time, my daughter, Amanda, the only one having shared and lived and understanding my culture – I am realizing the power of culture:
A: I am human and surrounded by humans, but there are times I do not feel treated like a human being. At these times my feelings and my fundamental understandings and needs are not respected.

B: I am fantastically loved, respected, and cared for! People willingly sacrifice of themselves just to provide for me! Anything and everything imaginable is being done to make my stay comfortable, enjoyable, and positive!

Both statements above are completely true! How? Culture!

The people with whom I am staying are doing everything they can from their understanding and from their persistent communication and involvement with me. However what is respectful, caring and considerate in my language, history, experience and background is very different from what is respectfully, caring, and considerate in their language, history, experience and background. This difference is so deep that our respective language, accent, and cultural norms get in the way even as we try to attend to each other.

Culture is what we take for granted. It is the norms that we assume guide every human being. If someone doesn’t function by certain norms we assume that there is something abnormal about them and that this can be corrected through teaching, telling, scolding, or correcting. By necessity because I am either alone or only with Amanda, I am taking the position of observing when people violate my assumed norms. Though I must confess, “Back in America ...” does slip out of me way too much. Any description of a culture is always generalization! Any one person is also from a unique family culture, unique village culture, unique peer-group culture, and unique life experience.

As time has gone on I now know and trust their commitment, compassion, and consideration. Thus the light increasingly flashes within me when my norms are violated – CULTURE! I am realizing for this relationship to grow that it will be very important first to orient each other to the opposite culture before we visit, then to spend much time in guided reflection during the trip, and finally to debrief after the visit.

Day 36 - Tuesday, 11th May
Amanda went to school with Sylvia Mosimane and I went with Kgomotso and John Molefi to see John’s cattle. Amanda enjoyed seeing the school. She is impressed with the quality of their elementary education – that is the teachers. There facilities are adequate but much less than ours and their resources very paltry compared to the U.S. John’s cattle stay on the land owned together by the people. He has a Kraal out there – about an hour’s walk from Lekubu. He had rounded up five of his milking cows yesterday and today milked them. They begin by releasing the calves on the their mother, which brings down the milk, and then milk a gallon or two from each. They only do this about once a week since these are a mixed breed of beef cattles. The milk is a bonus.

Day 37 - Wednesday, 12th May
Karabo Matladi is always our chauffer to Johannesburg. Great thanks to the Matladi family! He picked us up at 8:00 PM. We stopped at his parents and had supper there. Mavis Matladi is a member of the South Africa Parliament (meet in Cape Town), representing the United Christian Democratic Party – UCDP – and is one of five representatives for South Africa on the Pan Africa Council. Quite an honor to meet her, and we always have very interesting and informative conversations with Karabo on the politics of South Africa on our drives with him.

Day 38 – Thurs, 13th May
I'm still here in South Africa! Haven't had internet access for awhile. I'm now in Cape Town for five days at Dr. Peter Kjeseth's B&B (a professor of mine at Wartburg Seminary). I'll be meeting with him and Rev. Phil Knutson (ELCA pastor representing the ELCA here and who grew up and lived most of his life in South Africa) - so a great way to process and debrief!

Day 39 – Fri, 14th May
A fascinating 3-hour conversation with Philip Knutson & Peter Kjeseth on difficulty of true companion relationships. Most often it becomes charity that enables dependency or mere Christian tourism. It is very hard to dig deeper, ask searching questions, begin a true respectful, caring relationship, and rather than changing/saving others to change ourselves, i.e. our own attitudes, awareness, and advocacy – using the unusual power we have as Americans in our government & economy.

Struggle:
Being away from Claudia, home, family and all with which I am familiar has been difficult. It is also a challenge to be so immersed every day in a culture that is so different than my own. I am learning many actions & values are deeply engrained in me & taken for granted – of which I was never aware, e.g. drinking lots of water; exercise; typing, paper, & copy machines; internet connections; schedules; & Midwestern accents.

Appreciation:“Ubuntu” is an African word meaning “a person is a person through other people.” That is the heart of the uniqueness of their culture. They have deep traditions centered on family & caring for one another. I took a video of us walking to our home at night and you can hear people greeting us & one another all along the way. Even when we were in Cape Town someone called everyday to check on how we were.

Relationship:
I see service, awareness, and relationship as necessary and important disciplines for Christian faith & love, but need to be exercised carefully or we become the “ugly” American. American culture is much less diverse than we realize with mostly one language. I am realizing how important it is to prepare, observe, and debrief well, and to relate we need equal respect (with unequal resources), focus on assets, ask searching questions, & think long term.

Day 40 – Sat, 15th May
Just back from a sunrise jog along the Indian Ocean with yesterday's words from my mentors running through my mind: "There's a worm in every apple; every meaningful path in life is a high tension line; two opposites can both be true at the same time (P. Kjeseth)", "Any visit to a companion church that does not radically change the life of the visitor is mere 'Christian' tourism; people see only what they are prepared to see (P. Knutson & Ralph Waldo Emerson)"

Day 40 – afternoon
Amanda is ill, so I go alone to Masiphumelele a post-apartheid township 3 miles from where we stay near Cape Town. It is hopeless shacks one right against the other; yet there are small shops in many of the shacks, streets are filled with people talking & laughing & children playing. I realize I have more money in my pocket for myself than most here earn in a month for a large family, yet no begs, asks, steals, or threatens.

Day 41 – Sun, 16th May: Worship at Mayan Anglican Church near Cape Town
Worship at Anglican Church in Kalk Bay. Terrible music, excellent sermon, high church, Communion, and quite interracial congregation – Mayan, White & Black. Then Amanda & I hired a guide who took us along Indian Ocean, Cape Point, Atlantic Ocean (12 degrees colder), Penguins, & purchasing souvenirs from Zimbabwe, Malawi & Congo refugees. Pizza at night with group from Wartburg – professor graduated college with me, student sitting next to me is from Trinity in Waupaca.

Day 42 – Mon, 17th May
Ran along ocean; breakfast; Amanda & I walked to gem mine & for more souvenirs in historic Simons Town; then fly back to Joberg. Amanda’s flight was delayed 3 hours so we rearranged her flight – British Air 054 to Heathrow (2 ½ hours earlier), Delta 005 to Detroit & 3281 to CWA. While waiting for my ride to Africa Centre I made the mistake of replying to someone and it cost me R 20+ (important to be bluntly rude here in public places).

Amanda's gift to me:
What a great gift to spend a month with Amanda in South Africa! We had much time to talk, reflect & experience an amazing adventure together. We are likely never to do this again. But we now share a wonderful memory and deeper respect and understanding for each other which will continue and be treasured by each of us as long as we live.

Claudia's and Grace's gift to me:
This experience is much more than I thought it would be (and I thought it would be amazing), both in the challenge of being away from Claudia, home and family and also in this total immersion in this very different world. I cannot wait to be home, and imagine Claudia is feeling the same. But as hard as this is to be away for so long and in such a different culture I can also truly say each day is a life-time, eye-opening experience. Support Sabbaticals!!!

Day 43 - Tues, 18th May
At the Africa Centre again where I started. I visited with the receptionist. Working conditions and treatment of staff at this place is awful – worthy of some advocacy. Karabo Matladi again took me to Lekubu showing me Mendella Square and the high finance area of Joberg – with a huge and very high class mall! I learned much from Karabo & Moeng Segakweng (my 5th home) about traditions for young men.

Day 44 - Wed, 19th May
Amanda is home (I confirmed by phone)! Today I visited Mogkola, the neighboring village – a 3,000 member congregation. Ps Maota took us to the Tribal Office, Clinic, water supply office, primary school, a bricks project, spoke of the challenges of his village and ministry, and we saw men of the congregation replacing the church fence. Very interesting to see another village. The afternoon was spent with Confirmation & Young Women’s League. Several powerful personal testimonies and great devotions from the ten young women.

Day 45 - Thurs, 20th May
Had a day of rest and to catch up on journaling, except to visit the Rantao family. Ten of the Women’s League showed up all dressed in their uniform. They came to sing, read Scripture (Mk 14:28ff), offer words of assurance, and pray with this family. I learn they do this nearly every Thursday with members who are ill, old, or troubled. Coming to Africa was worth it just to see this!!! What amazing support and care!

Day 46 - Fri, 21st May
I walked on my own this morning – great fun walking through the village greeting people in Setwswana all along the way. Today was the monthly Communion to the old & sick people starting at 8 and ending around 1. We visited 5 of the 8 sections into which Lekubu congregation is divided, communing 20 people in 8 homes. There is an Elder in each section who invites and gathers their people together. After lunch I went to Zeerust with Moeng & Orlepelo to stores run by Afrikaan, Indian, and Chinese.

Day 47 - Sat, 22nd May
I attended a funeral for a Men’s League member at Immanuel in Motswedi. Funeral began at 7, we arrived at 8, ended at 10:30, with only a ten min sermon and most of the time eulogies and solos. Burial lasted until 12:30 – huge procession and the grave is covered as people song after song, all memorized. Then all went to the home and were fed in a few minutes. This was amazingly organized with tents, 4 serving lines, and lots of food.

Day 47 Madikwe Circuit Men’s Prayer League Conference
This is a 3-day Conference – Friday eve, all day Sat, & Sun worship – attended by 150 + men ages 20-80s, unemployed to earning 6 figures, little education to those with doctorate degrees. The singing, dancing, and passion is amazing to witness! Saturday was a Bible Study, report by the Circuit leaders, greetings (where I spoke briefly), two processional offerings by each parish with much singing & dancing, inspirational messages, business.

Day 48 – Sun, 23rd May: Worship at ZeerustI overnighted at Molokoe’s and preached in Zeerust at the church to which Dr. Molokoe belongs. I highlighted that the church has focused on Jesus’ “Great Commission in Matthew 28” but has neglected Jesus’ “Great Prayer in John 17. The world hears all kinds of preaching today and is not impressed and even turned off by all our words and promises. It will be moved to faith much more by our being ONE – than by our preaching. We have made members, baptized & taught, but to be church we must be ONE as God is ONE. When we are ONE with people of different cultures & languages the world will see Jesus.

Day 49 - Monday, 24th May
I was able to catch up on my journaling this morning. After lunch at the parsonage Kgomotso and I visited the mother of the missing girl - it is now 24 days that she has been missing. Human trafficing is a serious problem in South Africa and especially now right before the world cup. The mother had requested a private meeting with me. When we arrived she led me down a path to a small two room run down shack and asked us to come in.

A Mother's Plea:
She then explained the place we have met her is her aunts house - this is her house. Her reason for meeting with me, as Kgomotso translated, was as a mother imploring her heart for her youngest child, the only one now at home whom Amanda and I have gotten to know well at Confirmation and through a trip to a relative's farm. She has nothing and she has two sons seeking jobs in Rustenburg & Johannesburg for whom she must still provide until they are employed. She herself has worked for 10 years at the Lekubu Home Based Care as a volunteer and founder of Home Based Care which provides for orphans, the elderly, HIV AIDS, and hungry people - but she has never been paid other than a minimum stipend (horrendously minimum if at all). She does not want her last child to go the way of Kgomotso - could Grace provide money for her school uniform and for the dues so she can join the Youth Leauge? Her child is also not baptized and she wants me to baptize her before I leave. She so wants this last child to not be misled, to have good friends, and to keep involved in the church! Whew!

After the above - Pelompe's moved my luggage and I to Mosweu and I am now living with my sixth family in Mosweu Village. I will spend one week here and the last week in Nyetse Village so that I will have time in each of the three villages composing Lekubu Parish.

Days 50-55 in Mosweu
Lekubu is a three-point parish & the last two weeks I will spend a week each in the other two villages – Mosweu & Nyetse. Mosweu (couple thousand population) has no running water, no paved road, and a mobile clinic that comes twice a month. I have learned the gift of water helping the young child wheelbarrow the water tank home, and that people can smell me. Families live so close, for so long, and are so connected to nature that they have incredible sense of smell and know each other’s smell. When I walk here people smell me even before they see me.

Day 50 - Tuesday, May 25th
I saw Mosweu Church this morning. The walls are nearly all up and window and door frames in! Also made appointments at the Primary & High School to do opening devotions this week, visited the Chief & Elders, toured Home Based Care, and drove to Zeerust to enter this. Mosweu is the poorest village in the Ramotshere-Moilwa Municipality (like a county) -it has no paved road, no clinic, no project, and no funding for the Home Based Care. The 5 women who compose the committee have received some minimal training which they use to visit homes of orphans, AIDS, and elderly to offer tutoring and education on AIDs, medicine and nutrition.

Day 54 - Saturday, 29th May: MEETING with BISHOP DITLHALE
We had a three hour meeting together which was very frank and deep. I continue to gain respect for this man and for his love & insights on the church. We agreed that this relationship is not an option – it is key for the integrity of our mission – when we are ONE as God is ONE the world will believe the message about Jesus (John 17:21). I’m not sure about his deep trust in me as he commissioned me a member and spokesperson for ELCSA & the Western Diocese.

Day 55 – Sunday, 30th May
I preached and did Holy Communion at Mosweu.

Days 55-62 in Nyetse
Wow – what a way to end! This is a new village formed in 1990 at the height of apartheid. Change is hard – and people sometimes fought over the “right” way to freedom. When nine Black police were killed in one village over this disagreement the minority had to flee for their lives. I’m living with the Chief who led the village through that time and whose family are contemporaries of Nelson Mendella both in the cause and unfortunately also in the torture, imprisonment, and exile.

Day 56 - Monday, 31st May, 2010: CHURCH BUILDING
This week I am in Nyetse staying with the Chief’s family. His father was Chief in Mokgola and a contemporary of Nelson Mendela and their family also suffered much under Apartheid. In 1957 his father opposed the government’s imposed identification of women. He soon had to go into exile and his oldest son was arrested at school at the age of 10, beaten cruelly by the white police, and imprisoned for 25 years because of his father’s resistance. The mother took the rest of the children into hiding with the help of a white family in Johannesburg, the result being that none of the children, including this current Chief, were not able to go to school. Then in the late 80s this chief, then a young man, and his wife supported the Bophutatswana homeland and many of its progressive actions. Many in Mokgola opposed this stance and one day nine Black policemen were killed. With tension this high it was not safe to stay in Mokgola. The Bophutatswana tribal government built around 300 new homes in an area where the white farmers had moved out as a result of the homeland act and the new village of Nyetse was formed in 1990 with the people escaping from Mokgola and the workers deserted when the farmers left.

My companion is now Mathe. 8-10 white farmers lived in this area until 1990. Their houses or foundations, wells, fences, and fields remain. He showed me the original church for the Black farm workers, the tree used when the village was formed, then the Tribal Hall, and now the beginning of their new church – by those who lived through those struggles. Quite a moving story, and also saw and heard the drive of the current building committee to finally complete this project inspite of 90+% unemployment. There is no paved road here in any direction for 15+ kilometres. My new companion is Mathe, and he explained they live happily here living on the crops and cattle that they raise. But this subsistence farming does not give them money to pay for things – like building the church.

Three policemen came during lunch. They knew about our Conference group and had questions about what I thought of South Africa, what my purpose was, and what I could do to encourage and improve the life for the youth. They also assured me I was safe and to call them if I had any problems. The Nyetse Council met with Moruti Phege to plan my farewell, which I told them was not about me but a celebration of Grace and Lekubu Parish relationship and that their hospitality was already sufficient testimony. The graciousness of this village was again seen in the 15 children who came after school to welcome me – singing and playing games. I also learned at supper that the mother of this family, wife of the chief, is the Principal of the Primary School, and the Chair of the congregation. This is quite an impressive family!

Day 57 - Tuesday, 1st June, 2010: THE BUSH
I did devotions for the Nyetse Primary School. I will not be able to do devotions for the Secondary School since they are writing exams and only attend at exam time. I was able to meet with both Principals . Facilities are good, but the struggle here is that the government has a policy of a 40:1 student-teacher ratio without regard for the number of subjects, grades or administrative load so that they have four teachers plus the principal to teach 131 children from grade R (reception) to grade 6 and do all the administrative work. Secondary School has eight teachers to teach 185 students in grades 7-12 in nine different subject areas plus all the administration. The Principal teaches geography, English, and Setswana for all six grades – a total of 18 different lesson plans. Mr. Tau, whom I am getting to know, obtained funding for an ag and orchard project in 2005 which he now runs voluntarily involving and teaching all the grades the basics of gardening and farming – very significant for this village.

He then took me way into the bush, passing on our way to visit the Apostolic (built in 2009) and ZCC (just starting to build) churches and then on a tractor ride and a hike into the bush – past graves and foundations of former white farmers and workers’ houses, old wells, springs, and up into the high hills where we came upon a six qual Kudu bull! I learned many of the goats are lost to jackals, hyenas & baboons (Mathe has lost 16). He also showed me many wild fruits that they have many of which I have not heard or tasted before. “But beware,” he warned, “If you see a tree has an area that the Baboons have not touched it is likely there is a Black Mumba hidden there, and is so poisonous people die within a minute of its bite.

Once back I joined the women doing their wash by hand. Thank God for confirmation as my back was aching and I was paged to meet with the Sunday School and Confirmation. They were meeting just for me; showed me their traditional dance, songs, and memorization of Luther’s Catechism; and then escorted me back to my home singing and dancing all the way. I was then invited to the Chief’s fire and taught about the fire and the different Tswana people and their chiefs. Tonight’s late night conversation was on the burden of being Chief. In the past hundred years three times this family has had to flee for their lives. In this time of development, the fears, jealousies, and changes will not be any less.

Day 58 - Wednesday, 2nd June, 2010: SORGHUM
Mathe showed me the old white farm that the village now owns. It is a good size, nearly 80 acres from what I can see, laid out well with irrigation piping, and has lots of different vegetables – cabbage, spinach, onions, carrots, rootbeets. Three workers were spraying the cabbage and four were hoeing the cabbage.

Today was seeing sorghum as the basic food of the Tswana and the culture that goes with it: We visited a sorghum farmer who also showed me the bean plant of which they use the leaves to make morojo. They plant this in the maize because birds are a huge pest in the sorghum (she was using her slingshot) and they’d trip since it winds around the stalks. They had a pile of sorghum drying and a large concrete platform where beat it to separate the seeds from the stalk. I also saw how they make the malt for the sorghum beer, and later that day Mathe’s family demonstrated hand grinding and shifting to make milled sorghum.

We also visited the nearby Sehujwane Dam and brought greetings to the Reagile Village Tribal Authority on our way. Reagile belongs to the Brokalala Parish. The dam is quite impressive and supplies water for Brokalalo, Motswedi, and Gopane.

That night I played soccer with Rabaone, Omogolo, and Laone. Their ball is a bread bag stuffed with other bags.

Day 59 – Thursday, 3rd June = WITNESS
This relationship has benefits far beyond our own congregations. After meeting the Tribal Authority, one of the members who is pastor of the Zion Christian Church immediately went to the Chair of Nyetse Lutheran Church and told her, “I am very impressed with this relationship you have with America and that your visitor is not here only for the Lutherans.” The pastor of the Apostolic Church also visited with me. The Chair told me, “Never have the churches in our village been so united – they are so impressed that Americans care about our village!”

Most of this day was spent taking Holy Communion to the sick and elderly as we have done in Lekubu and Mosweu. There is a different air in this village and congregation. We had six elders and Women’s League people accompany us to the homes. What a witness of support and care!

Day 60 – Friday, 4th June = FAMILY
The nightly conversations around the fire and over supper are incredible: the stories of the terrible suffering and burden this Chief’s family has been through are horrible; the stress Mmamodia has as Principal, congregation Chair, Chief’s wife, & Chief’s recent illness; the vision & maturity of their two 20-something children is amazing; & then there is the laughter – my story of the drunk man I met tonight who asked me “Whose son are you?” – apparently I’m starting to both sound and look African.

Day 61 – Saturday 5th of June: PARISH REVIEW
2009 established a change in leadership and governance in all congregations of the Evangelical Lutheran Church in Southern Africa. The newly elected leaders in both Lekubu & Nyetse are very able, eager for this relationship, disappointed that Lekubu did not keep up their end to this relationship, and are committed to rectify that. They did not know the pastor receives a monthly newsletter from Grace. This will change as they have emails & addresses and insisted that they must communicate quarterly,

Day 62 - Sunday 6th of June = FAREWELL
All the parish gathered for a farewell (that this relationship fares well) – worship was 4 ½ hours & then a reception! Quite the speeches and much deeper commitment to this relationship. A great joy for me was to baptize Kegomoditswe. She is the younger sister of Kgomotso who disappeared more than a month ago. Human trafficking is very serious here with the world cup. Also deeply moving was giving a personal blessing to everyone present.

Day 63 – Monday 7th of June
Today is my last posting in Africa. Tomorrow I leave for home. This has been very long and I am missing Claudia, my family, home, church and Tomahawk. At the same time this has been an amazing, amazing experience. I have been received openly and graciously! Money could never buy the experiences and relationships I have had! What a humbling privilege to live the reality of the Body of Christ!

Day 64 – Tuesday, 8th of June
Lydia Rantao, the principle of one of the elementary schools in Lekubu, visited me this morning. She wanted to make sure to do that before I left and to convey her passion that she will work on her congregation in Mogola to strengthen their companion relationship with their matched congregation. I visited the Creche one last time. Ishmael stopped to visit. We remembered the candle we were going to exchange so he quickly went home and brought two candles for me to take along for Grace and Calvary in Merrill (matched with Mosweu). Karabo picked me up after noon. We arrived at the airport around 6:00 – plenty of time for me to get ready for my midnight flight. However, I discovered I am 30 lbs. overweight, and they only allow one check on luggage! I had to scramble to repack. I can have one carryon along with the backpack in which I had the computer (I gave it to Pogiso). That carryon is now quite heavy and I gave Karabo the maize meal and semp I had hoped to bring back.

Day 65 – Wednesday, 9th of June
I slept well on the plane and arrived in Amsterdam at 11:00 AM. Because my luggage is still overweight I had to leave security, pick it up, pay a 100 Euro fine, and re-enter security. I’m soaked with sweat lugging that luggage, plus the heavy carryon and the backpack from one end of the airport to the other. Then before boarding the plane each passenger is interviewed. My was lengthy because of my nine week stay and their wanting to know exactly what I was up to and what I am all bringing back.

I arrived in Minneapolis at 3:00 (time change – a nine hour flight). Customs wasn’t too bad except I had to go through the US Ag Department and they threw out my sorghum and maize I wanted as a display.

I arrived at CWA in Mosinee around 7:30. How great to see Claudia!!! Nine weeks is way too long to away from one’s spouse! I’ll not do that again. But this experience in South Africa – wow!

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Friday, July 30, 2010

Brief Sabbatical Report - Call to Action

Pastor Mark Ziemer's Sabbatical experience in South Africa